I let out a sigh that sparkled in the glimmering morning sun as I put my ski skins into my backpack. In awe of the deep blue shadows painting contour lines of the valley in contrast with the stark untouched white slopes, it looked like a painting. Beneath my feet was a thousand-meter descent of fresh snow, and beyond that the Journeyman Lodge. Two days deep into our stay and the magic is far from wearing off.
A not-so-little slice of winter paradise is tucked into the Callaghan Valley by the name of the Journeyman Lodge. A scenic 30-minute drive south of Whistler brings you to the edge of adventure. Access to the remote backcountry lodge is achieved via a snowcat shuttle for backcountry skiers or a human-propelled cross-country ski and/or snowshoe – more on that below. The lodge is an all-inclusive sanctuary for those looking for intimate, cozy accommodation with adventure on the doorstep.
Experiencing Callaghan Coldsmoke, that dry, powdery snow that creates an ethereal mist as you move through it, is what backcountry dreams are made of. It’s hard to imagine a place like this exists, but it does, and all it takes is one visit and you’ll be hooked.
Backcountry Skiing in the Callaghan Valley
Spoiler alert, the backcountry skiing is good, like really good. Without getting too weather-nerdy on you, the Callaghan region is notorious for having a deep snowpack; powder people rejoice! Due to the lack of accessibility for quick day trips, the snow stays untouched longer due to less traffic and frequent snow top-ups. Starting your ski touring from above 1,300 meters also gives you an elevation advantage.
Variety is a crowd-pleaser here. You can find everything you’d hope for on a ski touring menu including well-spaced old-growth forests (perfect for storm days), big glacial ramps, technical freeride alpine lines, mini spines, couloirs, pillow fields and more. There is skiing available on every aspect and every elevation band.
Finding what’s best for you and your crew should be determined by the current avalanche bulletin, weather forecast and ability. No matter where you land with that, you’ll have a handful of places to explore daily.
Backcountry ski gear and avalanche equipment can be rented from evo Callaghan online before your trip. Evo also has snowshoes and cross-country skiing if that’s your preferred method of exploration.
How to Do The Callaghan
First things first, there is more than one way to explore the coveted terrain in the Callaghan, so let’s talk about approach. The majority of the sought-after backcountry skiing starts from the Journeyman Lodge or near Callaghan Lake. Between you and either of these destinations is eight to thirteen kilometres of groomed, cross-country ski trails. The region is non-motorized to the public, so The Callaghan offers a snow shuttle service via snowcat, called the Lake Bump, if you don’t fancy the cross-country ski.
For those looking for more than a single serve, you can stay at the Journeyman Lodge and get a snowcat bump right to the coziest home away from home complete with drooly lines outside every window and creature comforts galore. Alternatively, if you’re a cross-country skier and a backcountry skier you can cross-country ski right to the lodge and the shuttle will deliver any extra gear or bags for you – dual sport anyone? More on all of these options below.
Snow Shuttle Single Serve
Sit back, relax, and maybe even sip on a coffee while one of The Callaghan’s snowcats whisks you up to the ski-touring staging area at Callaghan Lake. This early morning boost allows you to blissfully skip over eight kilometres of ski touring up a road with 400 metres of elevation gain while socializing and enjoying the views. From the drop-off point the options are abundant; go with a plan or a guide to avoid terrain choice paralysis.
Spend the day lapping, summiting and/or exploring; whatever the conditions support and the crew fancies. When you’ve had your fill, ski down the road to the parking lot where the snowcat chauffeured you up earlier. The snow shuttle experience is accessible and enjoyable for locals and visitors alike; who doesn’t love a quiet ski touring zone with alpine ridges and pitches, perfectly spaced old-growth cedar trees and stunning views?!
Lodge Life at the Journeyman Lodge
Situated in Callaghan’s Solitude Valley the Journeyman Lodge is in the center of backcountry paradise. The meticulously, well-laid-out lodge is complete with a commercial kitchen and a chef who knows how to use it, kind lodge hosts, ten rooms in various configurations, modern plumbing for all showers and bathrooms, a large drying room and spacious communal living spaces. Any booking at the lodge includes après snacks, a decadent dinner, breakfast and a to-go lunch the following day.
But where to begin when it comes to the experience?! Après priorities feels like a good place. If you’re the kind of person who cannot stop thinking about food while touring then the après snack scene will not disappoint.
A daily rotating menu of apres snacks is delivered to the living room for your indulgence post-ski. Cozy up by the fire, nestle into a reading chair, grab a game off the shelf or snack while playing pool.
I never seem to get enough time in this place; especially in the morning with a cup of coffee. Staring out the windows at the stunning mountains beckons me outside, yet the comfort of the fire, the couch and coffee make me want to linger. And that’s the kind of inner battle I want to have at a backcountry ski lodge.
The sauna at Journeyman Lodge is unlike any other and was custom-built by father-son duo and local legends Brad and Patrick Sills. The picturesque sauna is perfectly perched right above a creek. A round or two of hydrotherapy after a day of ski touring? Say no more.
Journeyman Lodge Tips
- For the sauna, I would recommend snow boots to walk there and if you want to cold dip in the creek, Crocs are always nice. Don’t forget an extra towel so you can save your provided lodge towel for less sweaty endeavours like showering.
- Tips are always welcome in the hospitality industry, noting the no service and no wifi, cash is preferred if possible.
- There is no bad time to go. I’ve visited the Callaghan in nearly every condition in every winter month and I can say that each one has its unforgettable offering.
- Bagged lunches are made daily and ready for your adventures.
- So much to do. I’d recommend two nights or more to get a proper sampler pack.
Cross-Country Skiing
Cross-country skiers rejoice this place is for you too! Not only can you cross-country ski to the lodge, but there is an entire network of trails directly from the lodge (40 kilometres of them). Glacier views, pristine corduroy and a hot soup for lunch, not bad right? The same goes for snowshoers staying at the lodge as there are marked trails and plenty of adventures to be had.
Backcountry Preparation
- Research the area before departing, have maps downloaded and a few objectives selected prior to arrival. The abundant terrain is overwhelming in a great way. If you’re at the lodge check out their terrain book with suggested tracks.
- No service, no wifi. Bring a satellite communication device for safety and radios are suggested for inter-group coordination.
- You can hire a guide to join you at the lodge or for the snow shuttle and would highly recommend – you’ll be more efficient with your time in the terrain with the help of a savvy local. Not to mention someone to break trail in all that fresh snow, wink wink. Check out guided opportunities here.
- Avalanche safety is of utmost importance, always. Be sure to have the proper gear and training prior to pursuing the backcountry.
- Not sure where to start with this whole backcountry thing? Jump into this blog to learn more.
The little things don’t go unnoticed at Journeyman like the scent of warm cookies upon arrival that lure you in and a thorough briefing on lodge life for your stay ahead of you so you feel right at home. A crew that manages the lights, checks in on you and enhances everyone’s stay with care and attention to detail. In summary, lodge life consists of deep sleeps, gourmet meals, relaxation and comfort – dare I claim a perfect pairing for a day full of glorious backcountry skiing? I dare.
Book directly through the Journeyman Lodge, but if you’re looking to stay in Whistler contact Whistler.com for the best deals on accommodation and to book your lake bump to the backcountry.
Book 3+ nights between January 1 - 31, 2025 to receive two free First Tracks tickets (early access to Whistler Mountain). Stay longer and save more, book now and save up to 25% on lodging and up to 35% on gear rentals.
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